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D60 Gears

Pope CrustyJeep said:
35's busting a HP 60... Makes no sense whatsoever :confused:


I'd be really interested to see a pattern and specs after setup. Something is definitely out of whack here. My knee jerk reaction, after seeing the pics, is that maybe the backlash is waaaay too tight.
Click to expand...


Yep kinda my thoughts too?? :wtf: :wtf: A 35" tire on a axle that they tote as being the shizzel for rockcrawling breaking it. I think I'll call DynoTrac tomorrow.
 
I have to agree--My rear HP 60 has been in my rig for 3 years now--on 38's and beat on and never ever failed....
 
My opinion.....
Just a quick look at the pictures and it looks like the damage is concentrated on the outside edge of the gear teeth. Now if the setup was correct the gears would not mesh on the outside edge at all so that kind of narrows things down.
a)setup was bad, mesh pattern was off.
or/and
b)Something moved somehow which also points at the setup.
or/and
c)foreign object got in between the gears.
or/and
d)clearance issue with case, possible case flexing.
or/and
e)?....
 
Binder said:
My opinion.....
Just a quick look at the pictures and it looks like the damage is concentrated on the outside edge of the gear teeth. Now if the setup was correct the gears would not mesh on the outside edge at all so that kind of narrows things down.
a)setup was bad, mesh pattern was off.
or/and
b)Something moved somehow which also points at the setup.
or/and
c)foreign object got in between the gears.
or/and
d)clearance issue with case, possible case flexing.
or/and
e)?....
Click to expand...

I'm going for D because both gears were setup by two different shops. And breakage is about the same.
 
Binder said:
My opinion.....
Just a quick look at the pictures and it looks like the damage is concentrated on the outside edge of the gear teeth. Now if the setup was correct the gears would not mesh on the outside edge at all so that kind of narrows things down.
Click to expand...
That's what concerns me. A view of the pattern would tell a story, no doubt. If the housing was machined out of alignment or something, you wouldn't be able to get a usable pattern, and **** might go BOOM.
 
Pope CrustyJeep said:
That's what concerns me. A view of the pattern would tell a story, no doubt. If the housing was machined out of alignment or something, you wouldn't be able to get a usable pattern, and **** might go BOOM.
Click to expand...

But I would think then that the shops that did the setup would have caught that fact. The last shop is my club pres so I have a little more faith in him. Still pulling my hair out right now!! I should just put my D35 back in. Hell I never broke it!! :redneck:
 
superglock said:
Wildman, Tell them the hole story with details to the posion you were in.
Click to expand...

Mike,
The whole story with details & the position I was in starts like this.
IMGP1178.jpg


This is the shot from the bottom of the hill looking up. This is John's CJ7 trying before I got my shot at it.

IMGP1184.jpg

Me between the rock and a hard place. Right before this shot I had the Jeep bouncing in the air by about 2' by everyones accounts.

IMGP1186.jpg

And here I am giving up and taking the hook.

IMGP1188.jpg


IMGP1190.jpg
 
I wish you had video, It would have been cool to see, Maybe next time. Is that where John did his springs? Do you get frequent flier miles?
 
Last edited:
I had issues with my former HP 60. I would twist axles and break ring gears. The problem is the high pinion is not good used in the rear(it was a propock 60)

I also was beaking gears in a Currie high 9". that ia a 8.8 case,9" carrier and 8.8gears.....the issure with that one was case flexing.

I highly recomend putting you locker and outers on a $100junkyard low pinion 60
 
Last edited:
Well let me throw this out for thought.
If I take the rear axle and move it to the front. Is there enough tube there with a rear axle to now move it and put knuckles on it? Then just put a D60/D70LP in the rear. What about rear driveline angle? Does anyone know the differance between a HP & LP for yoke height? To me this would be the CHEAPEST way. Then I could sell my HP44 to help cover some of the cost.
 
Wildman said:
Well let me throw this out for thought.
If I take the rear axle and move it to the front. Is there enough tube there with a rear axle to now move it and put knuckles on it? Then just put a D60/D70LP in the rear. What about rear driveline angle? Does anyone know the differance between a HP & LP for yoke height? To me this would be the CHEAPEST way. Then I could sell my HP44 to help cover some of the cost.
Click to expand...


Don't use a 70 in the rear...with 35's you will be stuck on everything.

You'll have to retube one side ofthe rear diff to make it a front.
 
Well I at this point am stuck on what to do. I hate to buy another R&P for this axle only to break it again. Well it doesn't really matter yet becuase I have to come up with the funds to fix this darn thing anyhow.
 
briejer said:
I had issues with my former HP 60. I would twist axles and break ring gears. The problem is the high pinion is not good used in the rear(it was a propock 60)
Click to expand...
I'd be willing to bet you killed it with bigger tires AND much harder abuse...
 

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