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Project "Secret Squirrel"
- Thread starter Jeepless
- Start date
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ya---The rag joint aint going to cut the angle...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok--since I got the reservoir mounted--I started looking at my options for the BLING cooler jack got. Now we are REALLLY running out of room. So I found the perfect spot for the cooler and made up some mounts. The only down side was I had to remove the winch--but at the same time I was able to remove a couple spots where I had cut off mounts but didn't grind them down(on the front cross tube). Also when I made the cooler mount I figured out how I was going to do a portion of the radiator lines so I was able to incorpurate the mounst into the cooler mount..
I had a chamfer(another stab i guess)
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So at this point it was time to pre-plan and get a rough idea of how I was going to do the lines to the rear radiator. After some looking around I finally came up with the plan to use 1 1/4" rigid copper tubbing. Now the outlets on the motor are 1 1/2 so its dead nuts on for the copper tubing. Now my first thing was to figure out what I was going to run for the hoses from the motor to the tubing. Well after some talking with 4RnrRick and a picture he sent me of the stock taco radiator hoses--I figured I would give that a shot. So I got an upper radiator hose--I looked at it and it was dead nuts on---cut it right in half and now I have both hoses I need.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Like I have always said--if there is a problem with any of my stuff---let me know so I can make it right....:awesomework:
I aint perfect and I do make mistakes.....
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Now the one and only problem I have found using the copper is the fact they only offer 90 and 45 degre fittings--so thats going to make it a challenge. So tonight I got to lookign and thinking--I grabbed one of the dies(dusty die) and it fits the tubing really well. So I figured I would give it a shot at bending the material with my EXTREEMLY dusty harbor freight bender..
To help to shield from dimpling the material I grabbed some 1 3/4" dom chunks I had laying around..
And here is what I got
It actually worked pretty good. I think its due to how well the die fit and the fact that copper is just so soft... So now I have opened up a door that was only partially opened to help in making this stuff work..
And here is what I got done tonight...
To help to shield from dimpling the material I grabbed some 1 3/4" dom chunks I had laying around..
And here is what I got
It actually worked pretty good. I think its due to how well the die fit and the fact that copper is just so soft... So now I have opened up a door that was only partially opened to help in making this stuff work..
And here is what I got done tonight...
Jeepless
Sleep deprived and proud
OH SWEETNESS! that looks bad ass! Do you think it will cause any problems when it gets flopped I mean IF it get flopped as far as flex goes? Will there be sufficient givefor a little twist?
Either way it is bad ass.....:awesomework:
Either way it is bad ass.....:awesomework:
Zukin615
Member
Crash man you are an artist for sure! I started reading this build yesterday afternoon and have not been able to quit ... have spent every spare moment I have had ... I must say this is going to be an awesome rig! I was told about your build yesterday by Jeff over at Trail ready. He said I would be impressed ... he wasn't kidding!
NICE WORK!
NICE WORK!
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So I got a lil more done today--and all I gotta say it was a very slow go..
Here you can see just how well the hose fits. Now the best part with the hose being in and "L" shape it will absorb more vibrations rather than throwing it into the copper tubing (as aposed to having just a straight piece of rubber to the tube)..
I also put a bleeder in the hose to aid in getting the air out.
Here the how the other hose turned out. As you can see I stuck a bleeder in that also. Now granted there will still be air in the system even cracking the bleeders---there is a temp sensor right at the neck of the upper neck of the motor that is the highest point that can also be removed to aid in getting the air out.
Here you can see just how well the hose fits. Now the best part with the hose being in and "L" shape it will absorb more vibrations rather than throwing it into the copper tubing (as aposed to having just a straight piece of rubber to the tube)..
I also put a bleeder in the hose to aid in getting the air out.
Here the how the other hose turned out. As you can see I stuck a bleeder in that also. Now granted there will still be air in the system even cracking the bleeders---there is a temp sensor right at the neck of the upper neck of the motor that is the highest point that can also be removed to aid in getting the air out.
iceman1
Well-Known Member
nice pics!,,,,,will you have to take it apart to paint the frame?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Here is at the frame rail. I tried to get them up as high as I could on the rails and they fit the contour perfectly.. Here you can see why it went slow---I found that bending the material is slow and I had to move the tubing into 5-6 different positions to get a good bend--otherwise it would start to kink and fold on the under side.
Now my origional plan was to keep the tubing along the frame rail--but it had dawned on me I still need to do the shackle mounts and they will be thru the frame so I had to dive the tube up and out of the way.
Now my origional plan was one piece of tubing from one end to the other. But once I started building it--I relized I would not be able to get the long piece out. So I had to make a parts run anyways so I was able to find some straight pieces of radiaror hose..
Now my origional plan was to keep the tubing along the frame rail--but it had dawned on me I still need to do the shackle mounts and they will be thru the frame so I had to dive the tube up and out of the way.
Now my origional plan was one piece of tubing from one end to the other. But once I started building it--I relized I would not be able to get the long piece out. So I had to make a parts run anyways so I was able to find some straight pieces of radiaror hose..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
They are lined up perfectly to continue out the back of the rig.
One thing I was worried about was having to dig thru hoses to find one that was a 90 degree--with almost 2" down to a 1 1/2". Well I got lucky and found 2 of these..
So tomorow I hope to get the rear half close to done...
One thing I was worried about was having to dig thru hoses to find one that was a 90 degree--with almost 2" down to a 1 1/2". Well I got lucky and found 2 of these..
So tomorow I hope to get the rear half close to done...
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
now why did you use copper pipe and not just like an exhaust tube or something else???
Not Jobless
Mr Funbags
How are the solder joints going to like the vibration?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
They should be fine--not any different than water hammer you get from comercial buildings and in fact this will be less stress on the joints
Heat exchange
ha ha ha:haha:
Paulie
Looking for man love
its gonna disappear in a few weeks. Some crack head is gonna spot the copper
