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Someone bring me up to snuff on Toyota axles

For me the biggest difference in the weight is on a hill climb situation. Typically the low weight stuff (Toyota based rigs) are going to be underpowered thus the extra weight makes the vertical stuff nearly impossible. Atleast, that was my reason for changing my style of rig.

I think the FJ axles are a great fit for a lot of rigs though.
 
My general philosophy on weight is that its always going to be more difficult to drag a heavier rig up a hill than a lighter rig. Nothing you can do changes that. Doesn't matter if you have 800hp or 80hp, 5000 lbs up a hill is always harder than 2000 lbs. Lighter axles are easier for suspensions to control, too.
 
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TacomaJD said:
I see what you're saying. Like on down travel over fast stuff, it would travel down quicker due to extra mass/gravity, jerking the chassis down with it, and so on.
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Its works against you on uptravel, too. If you think about what suspension does, it is using the sprung weight as a countermeasure against the unsprung. So if you have 3000 lbs of unsprung weight traveling upwards towards 2000 lbs sprung it will tend to move the sprung weight around more than it would a rig with 4000 lbs sprung weight. The occupants' comfort level is essentially how much they and the rest of the sprung mass moves around. So the less the sprung mass moves the more comfortable and stable the rig will be. Valving and springing affects all this but in general it is easier to control less unsprung mass by not having to valve as much to keep it from tossing the sprung mass around.
 
I stumbled upon a fairly priced complete fj80 front end last night so I picked it up. I'm not sure if I should run it up front with the hp or just use the outers on the rear and sell the hp third. Its not an e-locker axle.
 
Re: Re: Re: Someone bring me up to snuff on Toyota axles

TBItoy said:
I'd do this ^
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The hp front with steering behind axle in stock form is so nice though! You think the 8" front is significantly weaker than a 9.5 despite the 8 being hp? I can always get more 80 outers for the rear ...
 
Re: Re: Re: Someone bring me up to snuff on Toyota axles

patooyee said:
The hp front with steering behind axle in stock form is so nice though! You think the 8" front is significantly weaker than a 9.5 despite the 8 being hp? I can always get more 80 outers for the rear ...
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Yep, that extra 1.5" of gear should make up for the LP.

The tie rod is pretty low on the factory 80 front. I'd rather flip the knuckles backwards and put the steering above the diff
 
bjeep said:
So. If I have a 80 front. I am just screwed?
Or can I put the 9.5 center in it?
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You can't just "put the 9.5 in it"

But there are several documented builds of using the fj80 knuckles on fj60/62/80 rear axles to build a steering front
 
TBItoy said:
Yep, that extra 1.5" of gear should make up for the LP.

The tie rod is pretty low on the factory 80 front. I'd rather flip the knuckles backwards and put the steering above the diff
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Its not any lower than where I have my rockwell sterring behind my axle now and I don't think I've ever even touched it to a rock. Steering behind the front axle rocks and it was my intent to put it there if I could anyway. All you guys who are stuck up on having it in front to bash on everything don't know what you're missing. :)

Neal3000 said:
Those toy hp's are notorious for breaking in reverse
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By reverse do you mean going backwards or when run upside down? I assume the former?

I would assume that the 8" hp front would be similar in strength to a LP 8" rear ... which is to say not very strong. But If you use the 35% rule that makes the 9.5 LP front about as strong as 6.175" LP front. (If there were such a thing.)

I've found that entire FJ80 fronts are very hard to come by for a decent price. Partials without chunks or shafts aren't that bad though. Being as I got this entire front for such a good price I would hate to part it out only to wish I hadn't. I'm leaning toward running it and finding a partial 80 to put on my 60 rear. Then fi i had front r&p issues I could always graft the existing 80 outers onto the other 60 front I have coming.
 
Re: Re: Re: Someone bring me up to snuff on Toyota axles

TBItoy said:
You can't just "put the 9.5 in it"

But there are several documented builds of using the fj80 knuckles on fj60/62/80 rear axles to build a steering front
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Do you have links to these builds? I must be using the wrong search terms or something ...
 
I know This isnt exactly what your talking about doing but kinda uses the same principles.......is a front hybrid axle that i made a few years ago. If i had it to do over you couldn't pay me to do it again....and fwiw, i never broke a longfield mini sized birf in 7 years or so. I did have the splines of the inner axle strip out inside the birf one time in a wheel to wheel hit during a race that tore a d60 knuckle completely off the other rig. Imo the only real advantage of the 80 front is that you don't really don't need longfield birfs, the stocks birfs are way stronger than the rest of it

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj40-rear-to-a-steer-axle-build.468979/
 
Another thing, I see constant talk of people limiting their steering to "save the birfs." I thought one of the cool things about these joints was that they are just as strong turned as they are straight?
 
patooyee said:
Another thing, I see constant talk of people limiting their steering to "save the birfs." I thought one of the cool things about these joints was that they are just as strong turned as they are straight?
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Yeah I don't know what people are talking about there, my last 3 Toyota rigs were set up so that the felt ring (knuckle seal) was smashed in both directions.

I never felt like my steering resulted in a broken birf
 
I personally would run the FJ60 over the 80 series front axle.

Gusset the knuckle ball area, RCV shafts, IFS wheel hubs, Tacoma rotors and calipers, drive flanges, ARP studs = super strong axle for a lightweight 4cyl rig.

The mistakes people make with Toyota axles, is too much weight, too much HP, too much tire, and sometimes all of the above. A Toyota axle is never gonna be as strong as a one ton. However, a one ton is never gonna be as light weight as a toyota. You can't have it both ways. You just got to decide which is better for the type of rig and wheeling conditions you are building for.

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Another WTF about generally accepted Toyota knowledge: I know if you put IFS hubs on an FJ60 axle you get about 63" wide. And people always talk about wanting the 80 axle for its width, which is also about 63" wide. But the 80 hubs look almost identical to IFS hubs in terms of wheel flange offset. So is the 80 just getting its width from the hubs?
 

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