stealthrunner1
Well-Known Member
:awesomework: :awesomework: :awesomework: Well when ya get it done let us know!!!!!!:awesomework: :awesomework: :beer:
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
The Build-Up Begins...
- Thread starter 84Toyota4x4
- Start date
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Not a whole lot going on with this during the week. I cant wait for this weekend though, Im excited to get to work on the truck again. For now, Im just collecting parts.
I figured I have been putting off having some kind of "self recovery" long enough, and after searching around for an "affordable" winch for my needs, I decided I wanted to give the new Smittybilt a shot. It has a larger motor, faster line speeds, and lower amp draw than a Warn M8000 (lower line pull on the layers though due to the different gear ratios). The new version I got has a 5.5 HP series wound motor (like Warn and the others) instead of the older 4.1 HP permanent magnet motor they were using in them.
I was also looking at a Mile Marker, which is a permanent magnet motor winch, but the specs of the Smittybilt blow it out of the water for speed and line pull, yet the Smittybilt was cheaper, all metal (clutch engagement lever, etc), and I feel a better looking remote. Not to mention the series wound motor versus the permanent magnet motor. The advantages I was looking at with the Mile Marker though, were the waterproof control box, and solid state MOSFET control circuits. No solenoids/relays to stick.
In the end, I went with the Smittybilt. From what I had read, people were happy with the 4.1 HP permanent magnet versions performance, so I can only hope that the new version I got is just as good if not better. For the price (~$300), I think it will be hard to go wrong since its really only a "use it once in a blue moon" type thing. There has been only once in the past year or so of wheeling that I can think back on where I wished I had a winch. Most of the other times it would have been quicker and easier to just use a tow strap and give someone a quick tug even if I had one.
Anyway, I still need to build a bumper before I can mount it up, which has to wait until after the suspension and exhaust, but at least I have it ready when I get there.
~T.J.
I figured I have been putting off having some kind of "self recovery" long enough, and after searching around for an "affordable" winch for my needs, I decided I wanted to give the new Smittybilt a shot. It has a larger motor, faster line speeds, and lower amp draw than a Warn M8000 (lower line pull on the layers though due to the different gear ratios). The new version I got has a 5.5 HP series wound motor (like Warn and the others) instead of the older 4.1 HP permanent magnet motor they were using in them.
I was also looking at a Mile Marker, which is a permanent magnet motor winch, but the specs of the Smittybilt blow it out of the water for speed and line pull, yet the Smittybilt was cheaper, all metal (clutch engagement lever, etc), and I feel a better looking remote. Not to mention the series wound motor versus the permanent magnet motor. The advantages I was looking at with the Mile Marker though, were the waterproof control box, and solid state MOSFET control circuits. No solenoids/relays to stick.
In the end, I went with the Smittybilt. From what I had read, people were happy with the 4.1 HP permanent magnet versions performance, so I can only hope that the new version I got is just as good if not better. For the price (~$300), I think it will be hard to go wrong since its really only a "use it once in a blue moon" type thing. There has been only once in the past year or so of wheeling that I can think back on where I wished I had a winch. Most of the other times it would have been quicker and easier to just use a tow strap and give someone a quick tug even if I had one.
Anyway, I still need to build a bumper before I can mount it up, which has to wait until after the suspension and exhaust, but at least I have it ready when I get there.
~T.J.
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Breeze
Active Member
ooooooooooooo lookie there!
oldbeercans
Well-Known Member
nice work, this looks good. keep the rubber side down.
stealthrunner1
Well-Known Member
tj check out the new trail gear winch bumpers....
BrokeYota22
Well-Known Member
And heres why I need a new driveshaft
That looks like mine as of right now, i put my duals in and my short bed drive line wasn't quite long enough to bolt right up to a long bed. Although it would if i added another tcase:fawkdancesmiley:
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I saw them. Not quite the look Im going for, and my truck has a body lift anyway so it wouldnt line up right. Im gonna need to build something for it. I kind of want the challenge anyway. Im looking at tube benders now...tj check out the new trail gear winch bumpers....
~T.J.
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Now theres an interesting solution. I do have a spare t-case sitting around.
With the quotes I was getting for driveline work, another $50 - $100 would buy me a dual case adapter...
~T.J.
stealthrunner1
Well-Known Member
There ya go!!!! check out JD-2, that the one that we used for my f-toy,toyolets new buggy we're building and hunter1's tubeage!!!!:awesomework:
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
I was indeed looking at the JD2. Im waiting on a quote over on Pirate. I have the plans for the Got Trikes home built bender, but I sat on them so long the cost of steel went SKYROCKETING. It used to be about $150 in materials to build it plus the die. I started pricing it out last night, hit $285 for just the square tube I need (the first pieces I priced) and stopped. $10 more and I would have the JD2.
Anyway, right now Im thinking I might try the dual case route because its easier/cheaper to shorten a driveshaft than lengthen it. Especially since I planned on doing the cases eventually, so Im saving myself doing the same work twice eventually too.
~T.J.
PS - Just got off work. Im heading home shortly and will be working on the truck tonight :awesomework:
Anyway, right now Im thinking I might try the dual case route because its easier/cheaper to shorten a driveshaft than lengthen it. Especially since I planned on doing the cases eventually, so Im saving myself doing the same work twice eventually too.
~T.J.
PS - Just got off work. Im heading home shortly and will be working on the truck tonight :awesomework:
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Well, I got side tracked running around to get supplies (cutting and grinding wheels, paint, etc), and got even more side tracked with an engine I need to rebuild thats been sitting in pieces for a while so not much happened.
I got the front brush guard and bumper torn off, the axle torn off, springs off, bushings out, cut the spring hanger tabs off, and cut the stock shock brackets off. I still need to grind everything flush for the new spring hanger to get welded on, but Im sure I will have time to do that tomorrow. It should be back on its front axle by the end of the day - I hope.
~T.J.
I got the front brush guard and bumper torn off, the axle torn off, springs off, bushings out, cut the spring hanger tabs off, and cut the stock shock brackets off. I still need to grind everything flush for the new spring hanger to get welded on, but Im sure I will have time to do that tomorrow. It should be back on its front axle by the end of the day - I hope.
~T.J.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
are you makin a spring mount for that or buyin a prefab'd? your truck must be really tall with that three inch body lift. is it really needed? lookin good though man pm if you want those shift rails
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Its all a kit. Its pretty tall, its not really needed, but honestly Im too lazy to take it off, haha. The truck came with it installed. Ill send you a PM. Thanks.
~T.J.
~T.J.
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Worked on it some today. Got another late start - again. Oh well. Taking a break now for some food.
Anyway, I got the stock front hangers cut off the rest of the way and ground smooth.
Then I marked the center of the new hanger, as well as the center of the stock frame, and lined them up. I also moved the new hanger 3/4" forward per Trail Gear and got it clamped and tacked in place.
Of course after that I went ahead and hung the springs in the hanger and got the shackles assembled at the back to check everything. I ran out of wire RIGHT as I finished two tack welds so I havent been able to put weight on it to completely check everything yet. I took a break to get food and get some more wire and if everything looks ok, I will probably go ahead and weld it up.
Anyway, soon Ill be heading back over there to at least finish tack welding it up and getting the axle hung to check the shackle angles.
~T.J.
Anyway, I got the stock front hangers cut off the rest of the way and ground smooth.
Then I marked the center of the new hanger, as well as the center of the stock frame, and lined them up. I also moved the new hanger 3/4" forward per Trail Gear and got it clamped and tacked in place.
Of course after that I went ahead and hung the springs in the hanger and got the shackles assembled at the back to check everything. I ran out of wire RIGHT as I finished two tack welds so I havent been able to put weight on it to completely check everything yet. I took a break to get food and get some more wire and if everything looks ok, I will probably go ahead and weld it up.
Anyway, soon Ill be heading back over there to at least finish tack welding it up and getting the axle hung to check the shackle angles.
~T.J.
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P
pjbigk5
Guest
how much for the spring mounts and where did you get it
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Got back to work on it, and Ive decided I may have messed up the spring hanger. Im not gonna fix it though, Im just gonna live with it. Trail Gear doesnt specify which direction to mount it (the spring bolt holes arent centered with the square tube), so I went with Marlins directions to put the longer side forward (1/4" offset), but they said to mount the hanger flush with the front. I also went with Trail Gears directions to mount it 3/4" forward from stock. This makes the spring bolt holes roughly one whole inch forward from stock. My rear shackle angle at ride height is basically verticle. Im HOPING that once they break in a little, I will get a little better of an angle out of it, but Im not holding my breath. I should have triple checked it before I welded the hanger in place...
Anyway, heres a picture of the front welded up and painted (I forgot to take pictures of the welds and such)
And the (bad) shackle angle at ride height with the weight on it. It actually isnt "negative" like the picture looks. It was actually vertical. It settled some to a LITTLE less that vertical after I bounced it a bunch and flexed it a little.
I started playing around with the engine hoist and flexed it out a little. It actually looks like it will move pretty well. The rear left tire is about 20" off the ground, and the rear springs are hardly flexing at all. The shackle on the front right is about 1/4" from hitting the body mount, and the spring is flat. Looks like thats where I'll be making bump stops. Front left isnt at full droop yet either.
Anyway, this is the furthest my truck has EVER flexed, and its not even that impressive, haha
I also got bored and decided to attempt my home made driveline idea. I cut the end off my rear shaft which was too short, cut up a 1990 front shaft for the CV joint, and mated the two to get the length I needed.
Tomorrow I will be welding it up, but the CV fit into the rear shaft tube PERFECTLY (with some help from a 5 LB sledge), and I got it phased and aligned "square" with a machinist square. So long as it doesnt have a TON of vibrations, I will be happy. Im at about 55" compressed, and it will ride at 56.25", with the rest of the spline shaft for extension. I didnt take any pictures, but I will tomorrow when I work on that some more. The new long spline kit is on the way for the front, and I got some good practice taking drivelines apart tonight so Im ready, haha.
At this point I still have to do front and rear shocks, shock hoops, gussetts for the spring hanger, driveline work front and rear, and some brakelines.
So, thats all for tonight. A sucessful night all in all. I told you it would be back on the front axle today
~T.J.
Anyway, heres a picture of the front welded up and painted (I forgot to take pictures of the welds and such)
And the (bad) shackle angle at ride height with the weight on it. It actually isnt "negative" like the picture looks. It was actually vertical. It settled some to a LITTLE less that vertical after I bounced it a bunch and flexed it a little.
I started playing around with the engine hoist and flexed it out a little. It actually looks like it will move pretty well. The rear left tire is about 20" off the ground, and the rear springs are hardly flexing at all. The shackle on the front right is about 1/4" from hitting the body mount, and the spring is flat. Looks like thats where I'll be making bump stops. Front left isnt at full droop yet either.
Anyway, this is the furthest my truck has EVER flexed, and its not even that impressive, haha
I also got bored and decided to attempt my home made driveline idea. I cut the end off my rear shaft which was too short, cut up a 1990 front shaft for the CV joint, and mated the two to get the length I needed.
Tomorrow I will be welding it up, but the CV fit into the rear shaft tube PERFECTLY (with some help from a 5 LB sledge), and I got it phased and aligned "square" with a machinist square. So long as it doesnt have a TON of vibrations, I will be happy. Im at about 55" compressed, and it will ride at 56.25", with the rest of the spline shaft for extension. I didnt take any pictures, but I will tomorrow when I work on that some more. The new long spline kit is on the way for the front, and I got some good practice taking drivelines apart tonight so Im ready, haha.
At this point I still have to do front and rear shocks, shock hoops, gussetts for the spring hanger, driveline work front and rear, and some brakelines.
So, thats all for tonight. A sucessful night all in all. I told you it would be back on the front axle today
~T.J.
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84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Its at the beginning of the thread. Its also in the thread you started in the other forum.
~T.J.
longfield
Well-Known Member
Looking good nice work.:awesomework:
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Today I finished up the driveline I started last night. I got it tack welded in place, double checked the measurements, and went ahead and welded it up. The yoke is pressed into the tube a good inch.
After that, I had to swap the output flange on my t-case with the one from the 90 t-case the CV I used came from. I was just going to drill new holes in my flange, but the diameter of my flange was too small. The new holes would have hung off the end of the flange a small amount. Instead, I just swapped the flanges. Much easier. After that, I got it painted and bolted it up. Fit great. Not bad for my first try ever building a driveline.
I did some other misc things I needed to do, and started driving it around a little with the new rear driveline. No vibes up to 35 at least so far. I still have open headers so I was trying to be nice to the neighbors. Exhaust is next-ish on the list, haha. Anyway, I made sure my steering box was still far enough forward, and that still looks good (I had moved it forward a long time ago anticipating springs moving the axle forward later). Also, I got a better picture of the shackle angle now that Ive driven around on the springs a little.
Tie rod/drag link clearance. Looks good still
Front shackle angle with weight on it. Looks better that straight vertical like it was.
I figure next weekend I will work on the front axle getting it torn down and the 30 spline Longs installed, as well as tinker with shock mount ideas for the rear, and maybe get the hoops and shocks installed up front.
~T.J.
After that, I had to swap the output flange on my t-case with the one from the 90 t-case the CV I used came from. I was just going to drill new holes in my flange, but the diameter of my flange was too small. The new holes would have hung off the end of the flange a small amount. Instead, I just swapped the flanges. Much easier. After that, I got it painted and bolted it up. Fit great. Not bad for my first try ever building a driveline.
I did some other misc things I needed to do, and started driving it around a little with the new rear driveline. No vibes up to 35 at least so far. I still have open headers so I was trying to be nice to the neighbors. Exhaust is next-ish on the list, haha. Anyway, I made sure my steering box was still far enough forward, and that still looks good (I had moved it forward a long time ago anticipating springs moving the axle forward later). Also, I got a better picture of the shackle angle now that Ive driven around on the springs a little.
Tie rod/drag link clearance. Looks good still
Front shackle angle with weight on it. Looks better that straight vertical like it was.
I figure next weekend I will work on the front axle getting it torn down and the 30 spline Longs installed, as well as tinker with shock mount ideas for the rear, and maybe get the hoops and shocks installed up front.
~T.J.
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
T.J.---I am very disapointed at ya-----no more pics the GF workin away :redneck:
Lookin good and glad to see it coming along :awesomework:
Lookin good and glad to see it coming along :awesomework:
