War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
????:eeek:
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
The snawsage version---- something
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
????:eeek:
not really i have seen LP fittings take 3000 psi and i only asked as i cant tell if they are brass Hyd fittings or some brass pipe fittings, big difference in the way they are made. im sure mikey knows best:awesomework:
mostly i asked as i wanted to know the pressures as i am always collecting stuff and i see things (hyd fittings) everywhere in my travels.
the next question is what is the smallest dia in your steering hyd system?
as in smallest size fittings to shop for:redneck:
bigiron
Stuck in the Swamp
must be putting the big tires on it:awesomework:
Tires are sitting at home in my basement. I'm dreading moving them around to mount on the rims.....thats what my 6'3" 270pound 19 year old son is for.
I think he meant being stabed in the back by me asking Hip if I should have concern for the fittings.......sorry:booo:
I did have a huge concern for the fittings I used before I gave the buggy to Crash.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I was actually refering to getting the front calipers on and--finding out they had to be clearanced for the wheels---both sides--ugh....
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Ugh!!!:haha: ****, my dinky lil 33" LTBs were heavy--can't even imagine how many places mike's back will be broken at:thud: !!!!
Edit: apparently my computer decided to wait til after I posted this to show Robin's and Mike's posts!!!! POS I say!!!
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So robin dropped off new calipers for the fronts.
Well the origional ones were IFS calipers so they were a tad wider.
So before I went and drilled them out for the 5/8" bolt holes I went and m ocked them up. Well we got lucky and they just barely fit the rotor width--but not the wheels :booo:
So I drilled them and mounted them up. Once mounted I went and bled the system again :redneck:
Once mounted the grinding fun started. With each stage I would paint the caliper and mount up the wheel--that way I could see exactly where they rubbed and grind accordinly. I didn't wanna have to take any more off than need be to keep from getting into the cross seal of the caliper.
All done :awesomework:
Ya--can you say tight
I had to space the caliper out another 1/8" from where it was and do a small amount of grinding on the body on the outer edge...
Well the origional ones were IFS calipers so they were a tad wider.
So before I went and drilled them out for the 5/8" bolt holes I went and m ocked them up. Well we got lucky and they just barely fit the rotor width--but not the wheels :booo:
So I drilled them and mounted them up. Once mounted I went and bled the system again :redneck:
Once mounted the grinding fun started. With each stage I would paint the caliper and mount up the wheel--that way I could see exactly where they rubbed and grind accordinly. I didn't wanna have to take any more off than need be to keep from getting into the cross seal of the caliper.
All done :awesomework:
Ya--can you say tight
I had to space the caliper out another 1/8" from where it was and do a small amount of grinding on the body on the outer edge...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Robins new corp 14 drive shaft :redneck:
Also robin the box that the new U-bolts were in--I assume those are the correct part #'s on the box? On of the OLD ones was missing so I was going to grab another box...
Also robin the box that the new U-bolts were in--I assume those are the correct part #'s on the box? On of the OLD ones was missing so I was going to grab another box...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Also I had to ifx my lil mess up on the valve assy I redid--My origional measurement was off and the high pressure line off it was diving into the motormount mount....
Before
And after
The line now hugs the motor--which not olny will keep it protected but will also keep it away from the header....
Before
And after
The line now hugs the motor--which not olny will keep it protected but will also keep it away from the header....
Sorry about the caliper grinding. They looked so much smaller , that I thought they would clear easliy. Let me know what day this week and what time I can come up to charge the shocks and bump stops.
I'm also having problems finding the 8mm fine thread banjo bolts for the portal breather. I think I have 4 of them to put on the portal sides. Would it be easy to tap the axle tube side to a larger common size?
I'm also having problems finding the 8mm fine thread banjo bolts for the portal breather. I think I have 4 of them to put on the portal sides. Would it be easy to tap the axle tube side to a larger common size?
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crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
In actuality they are--being a tad narrower--meant less to grind off. And there are also 2 different versions of the IFS caliper--one with huge cooling fins and without (from my understanding the v6 ones had the large cooling fins)..
I will have to look over the diff to see if thats a possability....
As for the shocks--I will know tonight where I stand--got a bunch of diff stuff to handle tonight...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
:redneck: :redneck: :redneck:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I never noticed a u-bolt in that box--that I have gone thru and kinda organized--this goes here--that goes over there--here--there :redneck:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So tonight I only had a short time to work with. So I finished bolting up the sway bar--did some hot laps and ran it up the ramp---with only 2 wheel drive and no rear locker on :awesomework:
So the reason (besides more posing :flipoff: ) was to see how things are doing for clearance. The front looks to have no issues once so ever--but thats with no front driveshaft but the hydro lines down the link look to be ok.
The rear I dunno yet. Due to no bumpstops(and I cannot see any way for air bumps due to the chassis design) I can see where the chassis will hit the hydro lines(now with no sway bar they will get hit and with pretty safe). Now with just down force(like a hard bump) they clear the chassis fine. Now here comes the tricky part--there is soo limited room to run them due to the rear truss so I will have to explore that some more..
Other than that the rig is still going forward.
So the reason (besides more posing :flipoff: ) was to see how things are doing for clearance. The front looks to have no issues once so ever--but thats with no front driveshaft but the hydro lines down the link look to be ok.
The rear I dunno yet. Due to no bumpstops(and I cannot see any way for air bumps due to the chassis design) I can see where the chassis will hit the hydro lines(now with no sway bar they will get hit and with pretty safe). Now with just down force(like a hard bump) they clear the chassis fine. Now here comes the tricky part--there is soo limited room to run them due to the rear truss so I will have to explore that some more..
Other than that the rig is still going forward.
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Looks good Mike.
It looks like there is room to put the air bumps on the truss of the rear axle to the outside of the links. The pads would be lined up with the chassis where it's plated from the looks of it...
It looks like there is room to put the air bumps on the truss of the rear axle to the outside of the links. The pads would be lined up with the chassis where it's plated from the looks of it...
