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Yellow buggy build

Yall gonna have to wait till I get some RCV's before I'm willing to go over half retard on it. But you'll probably have to see it in person I probably wont have video or youtube. On the other hand I did get some badass video of a full throttle reverse gear assault down Cable Hill.
 
I only have one CV, the rear driveshaft. The whole rear driveshaft is just a stock Superduty front driveshaft from the junkyard, nothing special about it at all. I was under the impression that they were pretty tough as long as they werent over extended.
 
Still ain't seen pics of this magical steering wheel the carnie keeps blabbering about. Must be a set up. Like his basketball games
 
SHELBS44 said:
Still ain't seen pics of this magical steering wheel the carnie keeps blabbering about. Must be a set up. Like his basketball games
Click to expand...
Come to think of it the few hours I spent at Ed's carnival I never saw a single person sink a basket.......
 
You sir are a troll and your joking is useless and annoying. To be honest much like your driving, your trolling is just as tragic.
Man you guys could gay up any thread :gtfo:.
Didn't you win a black monkey?
 
56b0a804479d6bf2856f62e28e16fedd.jpg


So apparently a stock 6 clutch 3-4pack is not up to the task of holding back 500ish hp but I have a plan to remedy this.
 
So hopefully the solution to this problem is a Sonnax Smart Shell, it replaces the factory HD 6 clutch 3-4 clutch pack with a 9 clutch stack for a huge increase in holding power. I was hoping to get by without this $600 upgrade but as you can see the "HD" 6 clutch 3-4 pack was nowhere near holding up. I already previously installed a hardened sun shell and upgraded sprag. everything in the trans other than the 3-4 clutch looked like new but I went ahead and rebuilt it with new clutches and steels since I really dont feel like pulling the trans again anytime soon.
7de183d3f3d68781a7d97ea47830f80e.jpg

Heres a comparison of the burnt 6 clutch setup vs the new unburnt 9 clutch setup.
 
And then..... there was less talkin and more wheelin!

Its been out a few times since I built the new tranny. The only thing I'd change would be RCV's and drive slugs in the front axle, but that was the plan all along.
In case anyone wonders, 05+ Superduty factory lockouts are stronger than 1480 shafts, and 1550 shafts are stronger than factory lockouts.
 
d_daffron said:
In case anyone wonders, 05+ Superduty factory lockouts are stronger than 1480 shafts, and 1550 shafts are stronger than factory lockouts.
Click to expand...

I am very interested. I assume you mean the lockouts are stronger than stock 1480 joints or shaft ears. I would think the actual 35 spline shafts are the same strength 1480 or 1550. I am wondering if the 1480 shafts with chromo joints are stronger than the lockouts or if the ears are weaker.
 
1480 Shaft ears went first best I can tell, I kept the factory lockouts thinking they'd be an easily replaceable componet and they'd fail first. Apparently the factory lockouts are pretty strong though because it ripped the ears of the stock 1480 shaft and did nothing to the lockout. The actual shafts themselves seem like quality shafts, but the ujoint ears stretched on mine very quickly. I upgraded with $350 worth of OEM 1550 shafts and a couple rides later blew up a factory lockout. Replaced that lockout and still going, of course its not as tough as RCVs but its also out being wheeled instead of sitting on jackstands waiting on high $ parts. So far the 1550 shafts have proven to be quite tough, only thing I did was tack the u joint caps just for extra peace of mind since I know I'm not going to keep an eye on them like I should.


Also one VERY IMPORTANT thing I learned about using the lockouts as a fuse is when they fail the wedge themselves in the unit bearing and will not come out. It seems like it wouldnt be a problem because you could just pull the axleshaft out of the unit bearing and knock the pieces out, but since the snap ring that retains the shaft to the unit bearing is underneath the lockout you cannot access it to remove the shaft. There are two solutions to this issue that I have come up with. One option is to not run the snap ring on the stub axle, that way when the lockout wedges in a unit bearing you can pull the unit bearing and knock out the pieces of lockout. That option only helps if you had disassembled it prior to breaking the lockout and removed the snap ring. I did find a second way to get around this problem. If you have a medium sized pair of 90* internal snap ring pliers (I had to buy a set). You can remove the unit bearing with the shaft still attached, then turn it over and use the snap ring pliers to remove the large snap ring that holds the axleshaft bearing into the unit bearing. Once that snap ring is gone you can knock the and bearing shaft out through the rear as an assembly. Of course option 2 also means you have to either not have the big vacuum seal on the shaft, or you'd have to destroy it to get at the snap ring. Hopefully that makes sense.
 
And these are stronger than everything. Especially my balls...

f686db1ba56a9c4ca149aa6cee757e66.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
d_daffron said:
1480 Shaft ears went first best I can tell, I kept the factory lockouts thinking they'd be an easily replaceable componet and they'd fail first. Apparently the factory lockouts are pretty strong though because it ripped the ears of the stock 1480 shaft and did nothing to the lockout. The actual shafts themselves seem like quality shafts, but the ujoint ears stretched on mine very quickly. I upgraded with $350 worth of OEM 1550 shafts and a couple rides later blew up a factory lockout. Replaced that lockout and still going, of course its not as tough as RCVs but its also out being wheeled instead of sitting on jackstands waiting on high $ parts. So far the 1550 shafts have proven to be quite tough, only thing I did was tack the u joint caps just for extra peace of mind since I know I'm not going to keep an eye on them like I should.


Also one VERY IMPORTANT thing I learned about using the lockouts as a fuse is when they fail the wedge themselves in the unit bearing and will not come out. It seems like it wouldnt be a problem because you could just pull the axleshaft out of the unit bearing and knock the pieces out, but since the snap ring that retains the shaft to the unit bearing is underneath the lockout you cannot access it to remove the shaft. There are two solutions to this issue that I have come up with. One option is to not run the snap ring on the stub axle, that way when the lockout wedges in a unit bearing you can pull the unit bearing and knock out the pieces of lockout. That option only helps if you had disassembled it prior to breaking the lockout and removed the snap ring. I did find a second way to get around this problem. If you have a medium sized pair of 90* internal snap ring pliers (I had to buy a set). You can remove the unit bearing with the shaft still attached, then turn it over and use the snap ring pliers to remove the large snap ring that holds the axleshaft bearing into the unit bearing. Once that snap ring is gone you can knock the and bearing shaft out through the rear as an assembly. Of course option 2 also means you have to either not have the big vacuum seal on the shaft, or you'd have to destroy it to get at the snap ring. Hopefully that makes sense.
Click to expand...

That is extremely helpful. My buddy has the exact same plan. Nothing like good experience. Any updates would appreciated.
 

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