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555 "Black Betty"

Figured I needed to update this.....


Problems with proto-typical ****, and problems with co's not building their **** right!!!


Issues on me/rick whatever:
Front CV boot flange. I initially procured these double boot flanges fro the front inboard CV. Thinking if one boot is good, then two boots is better. But then didnt run the inner boot.
Like this:


As you may or may not know 40ish miles into the Parker425 I blew up the Driverside CV. At KOH we swapped it out, and Bryan Gillespie actually picked me up the single boot flange, kinda of on accident. When we broke the front down, we had assumed the loose shaft for X-many miles just beat up that inner flange ring. Swapped it out and moved on at KOH. Other issues kept me from LCQ'ing which I'll get to below.

So here is the single boot flange. Note how much more open the center is? Well it wasnt until back in Houston that I went to check both sides for the shafts slipping correctly did we discover, that at full droop the shaft was engaging that inner flange ring and leveraging the shaft up into and binding the CV star. The passenger CV hadnt died yet, but the ring was toast. Swapped that CV off and its now a spare.
Totally on us. We didnt reallize that with as much travel as this car has that the inner boot lip on the double boot flange was a limiting factor. We know now.


Issues on vendors (motor/trans/radiator):

Motor:
The motor didnt run right from 1st fire, initially we thought it was clogged injectors on one side. After going to the laptop, realized it was unbalanced side to side as far as fuel was going. Wideband 02's so we swapped them, no change but changed the banks. Put new 02's in thinking the leaded race gas had killed them (it didnt help). Finally I took it to Mast in Nacogdoches after 11 hours of run time (4 hours over 5k!!!) After multiple hours of trouble shooting it ended up being in the O2 harness with the harness not being built right from the beginning and some of the wiring not going to the correct plug. This was only discovered after the Mast techs looked up which dyno my motor was broken in on, and coming out and comparing that dyno rooms O2 harness to the harness on my car. It was messed up. Would have never solved it I dont think.


Radiator:
This is the actual issue I three the towel in on at KOH. New Ron Davis, biggest baddest they make. Upper right corner at 10 hours old had separated fins at the sidetank. My local shop was able to seal it back up with some rubber weld process that had to cure for a day on heat. But none the less, Ron Davis brand new hyper-expensive junk from the get go.

Tranny (4l80 manualVB):
First Trans built: badass 100% correct beast, their converter shop made a mistake and built a lockup converter when the flows on mine required a non-lockup. Motor would have to push through lockup to go, making it very unpredictable and magnifying the running issue. Eventually the converter fragged enough material off the lockup to clog the pump and fried the forward planetary gears, equaling failure of all forward gears.
Second Trans built: converter was correct but in the forward gear rebuild they swamped my gear train off for a nicer but newer style setup. Newer has some external oiling going on to reach the forward planetaries, vs. mine gets it oiling thought a gun drilled intermediate shaft. Well that shaft was not gundrilled on the 2nd rebuild, so same failure, fried the forward planetaries in 52 miles.
Third tranny: so I was done with my tranny builder. They are supposed to be one of the best shops in drag/street strip to mess with the GM electrics, they are serious racers themselves, but two incompetent failures IMO. I talked with Jeremy Whitt at Gearworks, and he has a few 4L80's out there in Trophy Trucks that are surviving. My plan was to send to him. I call my shop after the failure to let them know it made it 52 miles, I was less than happy, and couldnt foot their learning curve. I wanted to continue to use them to flush my lines and cooler though and again these are some of the nicest people I've dealt with.
Well 24 hours later one fo the owners calls me and is just beside himself, he thinks he knows where they f-ed up, wants a 3rd chance, says this is the badest 4l80 they've done, theres no way if its all correct could i tear it up. After nearly and hour of discussion, we come to the agreement that I sat on for 3 weeks before agreeing to. The agreement was to let them build #3, if it fails they refund my moneys for the original build, convertor, and 3x's R&R. Mind you they ate the cost on the 2nd rebuild and will be eating the cost on this rebuild. So its there now, I should get it on Friday.
They are highly vested now! Seriously eating two rebuilds, and the original build, plus paying me their shop rate for the 3x's I'll have pulled the trans.
I'm still out Parker/KOH/Texana/Notrees. Seriously trans would have blown in 1st 20 miles at KOH. Instead I have two more entree fees, fuel, days off for me & my buddies, and west texas roach motels are more expensive that New York City 5 star hotels right now with the oil boom out there.
If #3 fails, I'll take all my money from CircleD and have Gearworks build me a sick TH400, and swap out my atlas for a hero and maybe finish a race without tranny failure....
 
Matt O. said:
All AI could picture while reading that was $ signs

Pretty much.....

Visual of what she continues to look like.
A31B8C43-7E4B-4A72-A9EF-99FD862F942A_zpsisirxmpk.jpg
 
Matt O. said:
Videos on FB look good. Hope you get some good luck soon and can finish a race!

Me too...
I'm getting tired of all the shop work! I dont think I'm lazy but since the first of the year this thing has dictated a lot of time.
 
Full prepped sitting in the shop missing a fuel bladder.
After the Firecracker it had noticeable fuel weeping from one of the drain holes in the fuel can. After Dirt Riot it was dripping about a 1/2 gallon and hour.
I pulled it apart and found a seam was the culprit. Sent bladder to CBR second week of June. CBR is one of the worst companies I've ever dealt with. ZERO follow through.
I have had to call weekly, and as of today been promised a bladder going on 4 weeks. Even as far as told, its shipped 3 separate times, even once that it was overnighted so I could have it for the Texana180.
Guess who didnt race Texana.......

Looking forward. Its going to winter in Havasu at Ricks. I'm leaving truck/trailer/Unicorn out there and flying out a bunch of weekends. Maybe thanksgiving and or XMAS to test, tune, just get more experience.
Only things on the horizon are SEMA for Nitto possibly, then Parker425 and then the Mint. Parker is weekend as KOH this year, race is day is Saturday, day after KOH(Friday).
So probably go out to KOH until Thursday morning then head east to go qualify for starting position of the 425.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5Pv-6s2e9Y
 
third to last pic as well as one above, your rear tire is folded under to the point the rim is close to the ground, danger zone for sidewalls if there's a rock present.
My question is about tireballs, the pressure in the balls and the pressure in what is left of the tire outside the balls. What differential numbers do you use, which one has more etc?
 
Wow, some of those pics are so much better and clearer, brighter than the others. Cool seeing what watermarks are bringing their A game.
 
blacksheep10 said:
third to last pic as well as one above, your rear tire is folded under to the point the rim is close to the ground, danger zone for sidewalls if there's a rock present.
My question is about tireballs, the pressure in the balls and the pressure in what is left of the tire outside the balls. What differential numbers do you use, which one has more etc?

The 3rd to last pic is a flat right rear, or near or going flat.


I've been running 15* in the balls, and 22-23* in the tire. I have killed 4-7 cells in every tire, every race. Kentucky was especially hard when I went full retard and exploded the drivers front.
I'm on the fence about putting them back in and buying more. My numbers are right in line with 90% of the other users out there, if they go back in I'm going to drop to 12* and trying a different lubricant.
Because from what I can tell, the balls end up turning sideways from the installed orientation, putting the seam against the body of the cells next to it, and the seam wears through the two bordering cells. Eventually this happens to enough cells until they aren't really doing anything as they are no longer under pressure. Then they are out of ballance, and you actually feel like you have a flat even when you dont cause the cars starts riding like a paintshaker.
DSC_0482-XL_zps2a120c5b.jpg



expensive dumbassery here
balls_zps3a6a3ac9.jpg




Ricky you still take great pics, but when you get to see them side by side others you're right. I still want a copy of that tabletop air shot even though it has that fuggin' stadium light in the center of it.

This is actually one of my favorite pics (and racing memories) from that weekend. I was trying to catch Shannon, and I took that last turn before the back straight SUPER WIDE, ended up out in the field, but bleed very little speed. Had a major run on him before those whoops. When we went around that chicane and into the trees, it was Shannon, and me right on his bumper, we were both up on the bike and upshifting where a sane person would have #1 tried to set it down, #2 checked up the brakes. I'm pretty sure I gave Shannon a man hug at the finish line about how awesome door to door with him was.
sturgis1_zps4ea04d31.jpg
 
So, looks like that car allows you to still suck as a driver and not turn over.

Nice.

RickyB.....dump all that Nikon **** and get you a Canon :D
 
wngrog said:
So, looks like that car allows you to still suck as a driver and not turn over.

Nice.

RickyB.....dump all that Nikon **** and get you a Canon :D

Thanks Nolen! The heat I won, I started in the back, to win. Wasnt worth it though. Stupid big car, and stupid tight trees. She made for bombing whoops in the dezert.
 
Are the tire balls working out if your having that many failures?
Im prepping for hammers and really thinking they are going to be left out for that race?
 
EOR MFG said:
Are the tire balls working out if your having that many failures?
Im prepping for hammers and really thinking they are going to be left out for that race?

Im not putting them back in, but thats just me.
In going through mine, all it takes is for one bladder to get turned just enough, and its seam edge wears a hole in the one next to it, and then its a chain reaction.

But if you guys are going to keep running them, start running the "Ultra Seal, Extreme Heavy Duty" for lube inside. Put them in dry then add 50ish ounces of that stuff.
 

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