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My 321 Build

Wiring is Done! Well besides brake switch, lights and rear brake lights. Center console is all together and I fired it up tonight. I have to troubleshoot it dieing right after it cranks. It will crank for about 3 sec and die. But here is the video of it cranking. Boy are we getting close.....
:woot :woot :woot :woot :woot

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.
 
The computer was suppose to have a tune done so that should be gone. The harness doesn't have a wire for that . The only thing I don't have hooked up is 02 Sensors and the wires for Park on tranny and the Brake Pedal. I need to ground those out. I was hoping it would run without the 02 sensors so I could get it to the exhaust guy. Guess I will have to fab up something to get by if this is the case.

Does anyone know if it has to have the 02 Sensors to run? I know it will run like **** but I was thinking it would still run. ** Update ** Doesn't have to have 02's to run.....

Are these still called OBD2 or did they change for Gen 3? I have an OBD2 Scanner but it will not link to the computer.
 
did you modify the harness your self? mine did the same thing because of the factory theft device in the ECM was not disabled
 
It is a Aftermarket Harness. Very nice but didn't have anything for a security wire. I guess I could get a 12v light and see if it turns the malfunction light on. From what I understand they have to remove it when they do the tune. believe they refer to it as the VATS.
 
the motor will run without the o2's hooked up if you just have a aftermarket wireing harness and a factory computer with just a tune the vats could still be turned on and that sounds like what your problem could be. so the first thing i would check is to make sure the vats is turned off :dblthumb:
 
caglezxj said:
The computer was suppose to have a tune done so that should be gone. The harness doesn't have a wire for that . The only thing I don't have hooked up is 02 Sensors and the wires for Park on tranny and the Brake Pedal. I need to ground those out. I was hoping it would run without the 02 sensors so I could get it to the exhaust guy. Guess I will have to fab up something to get by if this is the case.

Does anyone know if it has to have the 02 Sensors to run? I know it will run like **** but I was thinking it would still run. ** Update ** Doesn't have to have 02's to run.....

Are these still called OBD2 or did they change for Gen 3? I have an OBD2 Scanner but it will not link to the computer.
Click to expand...

Should be OBD2
 
Yeah I googled last night and it showed t to be OBD2 . Anyway to tell if it is the VATS without pulling the computer out and sending it off?
 
just plug the o2 s in and let them hang the computer is tuned without vats it should fire
 
Thanks , I will plug them up and clean the injectors. I was told that the injectors clog easy and if it has been sitting it could be a reason this is happening. But I was happy when it fired right up. Getting closer.
 
Plugged the new computer in today and it idled. Thanks Jimmy at EOR for getting me another computer so quickly.

Crappy cell phone video... Actually got it idling better after it warmed up some.

Chevy 6.0
 
I put a master disconnect on my LS1. If I turned it off for a couple days, it always ran crappy for a few minutes. I was told it had to relearn the sensors. True or not ??? I don't know, but it always got better when it warmed up, and then no problems till I cut it off again. Glad you got her going man. :dblthumb:
 
I have a master disconnect switch also. And the way the touch panel works I have to turn it off to power down the touchpad. I can take it running like poop when it first cranks if that is the case. It was idling nice and smooth when the temp got to 180-190 . My goal tomorrow is to get the coolant flowing through the radiator and get the air out of the front brakes.
 
It won't do it unless it is off for awhile, if it works the same as mine did. You should be fine. Trial runs will tell, but I wouldn't stress. Try and fill the block first if you haven't already, and Noah showed me a trick of drilling a pin hole in the thermastat to help release air quicker.
 
Jimmy told me to get a coolant reducer. Remove the thermostat and put it in place. I also have a steam port I can open if I need it.
 
HotRodpayton said:
I put a master disconnect on my LS1. If I turned it off for a couple days, it always ran crappy for a few minutes. I was told it had to relearn the sensors. True or not ??? I don't know, but it always got better when it warmed up, and then no problems till I cut it off again. Glad you got her going man. :dblthumb:
Click to expand...
it will have to relearn everything just a little there should be a memory wire in the harness that you can hook on the side of the disconnect that is always hot so the computer is always ready :dblthumb:
glad you got her running :woot:
 
I got the coolant added to the radiator and burped the system a lot. I found a little secret or maybe I haven't heard of it. But on these Gen 3 Engines you have a steam port. I filled the radiator till it wouldn't take any more. Then I used a Coolant jug and drilled a hole in the cap. I used a hose barb and a piece of hose to connect it all to the steam port. Put a small air hole in the bottom of the jug about middle ways and close to the front or back of the jug. This is so you can lay it down flat and not spill coolant or water every where.
So with the jug full of water and hooked up , just squeeze the jug. It will fill the engine and pump before the thermostat. I had to do this twice and in between filling my radiator back up. I will do everyone like this.

So enough tech. I ran the engine for a good while and with the fans off it stayed about 185 after the thermostat opened. I started idling it up and flipped the fans on and it dropped way down. I know it is no comparison to flogging it on the rocks but I believe the radiator will be fine. My fan is being a pusher . It is a Perma Cool and they all come as a puller. So I am pretty sure all I will have to do is swap my wiring over. It is awesome to be able to go out and crank something you have put so much time in....
 
If you start having cooling issues the 5/8 restrictor did wonder for mine. It will still get hot when really getting on it but cool off quicker. It's cool to see the temp drop as you give it throttle.
 
J.A.B said:
If you start having cooling issues the 5/8 restrictor did wonder for mine. It will still get hot when really getting on it but cool off quicker. It's cool to see the temp drop as you give it throttle.
Click to expand...
How did yours turn out?
 

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