no competition was never a part of the main question, but the bottom line is, that is where the worst condition's and senarios happen, and if that is the range used by all, then I'm sure the same crawl ratio would surely do when crawling through the wood's and open rock crawling. again, IN MY OPINION, I'm clueless remember.
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- Thread starter Brian H
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no competition was never a part of the main question, but the bottom line is, that is where the worst condition's and senarios happen, and if that is the range used by all, then I'm sure the same crawl ratio would surely do when crawling through the wood's and open rock crawling. again, IN MY OPINION, I'm clueless remember.
With an AX15, stock 231 and 5.13's in the axles, mine comes out to be 53.44:1... I want lower, but I'm not going to waste money on the 231 so I'm just going to have to stick with what I've got until I can come up with the cash to re-work the axles and t-case setup in my rig... 231/300 doubler and a passenger drop front should get me where I want to be. 
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Multiply all your ratios together.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
That's because you step on the clutch when you want to stop. With 70 to 1 and an auto, you have to click it up into neutral. Even with 4 discs and a big M/C, I sometimes have issues. (Just did the math, I'm 48.6 to 1, v8, auto)
New rig will be either 30.7 or 42.9 (still v8, auto) and I'm hoping to like those option more. (It'll also have a compound low of 116.7 that I figure I'll never use)
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no excuses
Well-Known Member
benw1
Well-Known Member
So what converter are you running with your 4.3 & where did you get it?
Binder
Well-Known Member
No that's me, minus the good guy part.:flipoff:
The driving through your brakes thing is really quite simple. It takes X amount of torque to power through your brakes (yes torque not HP).
Good brakes will hold more and crap brakes will hold less. Your engine at idle produces Y torque. You multiply your engine idle torque times your crawl ratio and if the product is greater than X you're not stopping, stick or auto. Yes the torque converter needs to be accounted for with the auto. No it's not always 2:1, each converter is going to be different.
What did we learn? No matter how many X's or Y's we have your toyota is still a pile!:haha:
no excuses
Well-Known Member
stock chevy vega convertor, from local auto parts, cost around $85-$100
Wildman1
Well-Known Member
Okay just for those that don't know.
1997 TJ, 1999 5.2L V-8, 44RE Auto, StaK t-case, 5.13 gears in the axle.
And I don't over power my brakes even when I am in LOW LOW because I built up my brakes too.
1st gear(2.74)-Low/Low(5.44)-5.13=76.47
1st gear(2.74)-Low(3.05)-5.13=42.87
2nd gear(1.54)-Low/Low(5.44)-5.13=42.98
2nd gear(1.54)-Low(3.05)-5.13=24.1
3rd gear(1.00)-Low/Low(5.44)-5.13=27.91
3rd gear(1.00)-Low(3.05)-5.13=15.65
4th gear(0.69)-Low/Low(5.44)-5.13=19.26
4th gear(0.69)-Low(3.05)-5.13=10.8
Not that anyone really wants to know but I was bored.
1997 TJ, 1999 5.2L V-8, 44RE Auto, StaK t-case, 5.13 gears in the axle.
And I don't over power my brakes even when I am in LOW LOW because I built up my brakes too.
1st gear(2.74)-Low/Low(5.44)-5.13=76.47
1st gear(2.74)-Low(3.05)-5.13=42.87
2nd gear(1.54)-Low/Low(5.44)-5.13=42.98
2nd gear(1.54)-Low(3.05)-5.13=24.1
3rd gear(1.00)-Low/Low(5.44)-5.13=27.91
3rd gear(1.00)-Low(3.05)-5.13=15.65
4th gear(0.69)-Low/Low(5.44)-5.13=19.26
4th gear(0.69)-Low(3.05)-5.13=10.8
Not that anyone really wants to know but I was bored.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
I did. Originally it was set up with around 1200-1300 stall. Now, I'm closer to 1500-1600 after the torque converter swap. And in low range, first gear (roughly 50-1) if my idle is up, I'll pull through the brakes. I've changed out the master cyl to a vette 4 disc, and have discs on all corners, so it's not a brake issue, it's a dis-ablility to stop the drivetrain. Yeah, I could bump the T/C up a little higher, but that will create more tranny heat, so I'll live with kicking it into neutral on the times it wants to pull. It drives great on the street, and only under some circumstances do I have issues. Now, when it had the original T/C, damn, that was a problem. It'd pull through about everything.
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
i have like 48 to 1 now with my manual
when im done with the 1 ton build I will be at like 120:1 with a manual.
when im done with the 1 ton build I will be at like 120:1 with a manual.
Six-Nine
Well-Known Member
242.68:redneck: AX-15(3.83 1st gear), 231 crawl box(2.72), STak 2spd 4.33, 5.38's turning 42's
Don't really need the double low...but it does give me a lot of control if I need it.
Don't really need the double low...but it does give me a lot of control if I need it.
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what size tire are you going to run? are you sure you want to go that low you will be spending all your time in 2 or 3 gear
With my toy stuff I was running at 226:1. I found with the poopy 3.0 V6 in the toy and big tires, that regular low wasn't quite low enough wth the 5sp. The rear t-case in 4.7 and about 2nd gear was perfect for most of the trail running. I would occassionally drop both t-cases to low for fun but I can't recall a time that I ever had an actual need for it. When I ran the rock pile at Cranberry Lake I used the stupid low as I called it but that was about it.
In my current setup with a very healthy SBC 350, TH350, NP203, NP205 and Dana 60s I run in normal low 90% of the time. I do drop into compound low when I need to go slow. It's not for traction so much as it is to keep me from bouncing into trees that I barely fit through. I'm at 53:1 without any accomodation for the torque convertor. When I double down I can't see much use in going any lower than I am. I don't know the setup of my transmission, I only know that it has a "shift kit" in it, but that's all the seller knew. It was rebuilt so I wasn't about to go changing stuff just for the sake of changing stuff.
I don't drive through my brakes but I'v running 4 wheel discs. I certainly CAN drive through my brakes but I'm able to stop when I need to. My brakes are a little squishy despite bleeding and bleeding and bleeding. I think if I had a 4 wheel disc master that problem would go away, but again, it works so I'm not gong to go changing things until it doesn't work.
In my current setup with a very healthy SBC 350, TH350, NP203, NP205 and Dana 60s I run in normal low 90% of the time. I do drop into compound low when I need to go slow. It's not for traction so much as it is to keep me from bouncing into trees that I barely fit through. I'm at 53:1 without any accomodation for the torque convertor. When I double down I can't see much use in going any lower than I am. I don't know the setup of my transmission, I only know that it has a "shift kit" in it, but that's all the seller knew. It was rebuilt so I wasn't about to go changing stuff just for the sake of changing stuff.
I don't drive through my brakes but I'v running 4 wheel discs. I certainly CAN drive through my brakes but I'm able to stop when I need to. My brakes are a little squishy despite bleeding and bleeding and bleeding. I think if I had a 4 wheel disc master that problem would go away, but again, it works so I'm not gong to go changing things until it doesn't work.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
223.1, toy duals stock gears in the front case 4.7 gears in the rear case 5.29's and 40's
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
230 to 1. Toy 4spd, dual cases with 4.7's in rear. 529's and 38.5's
I usually run the front case on open terrain. the 4.7's in second in moderate conditions. I only use all the gears to try and save birfs when I have to really pin a tire.
It is nice having the option though.:awesomework:
I usually run the front case on open terrain. the 4.7's in second in moderate conditions. I only use all the gears to try and save birfs when I have to really pin a tire.
It is nice having the option though.:awesomework:
