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The Barn 4x4's first buggy

Got a package today. New ram for the front, 2"x8" from surplus center, also a new rear steer valve. This one is nice, it is adjustable from open to close center, has an optional power beyond port, and an adjustment for how much pressure goes to the ram and how much goes past the valve.

I went back out to the barn yesterday and picked up another front end, this one is for the front. I also got my peddle assembly, brake booster, and assorted driveshafts to connect all the craziness I have going on here.

Also 4 more sticks of tubbing came in yesterday at work, and my plasma cutter will be hear Friday so its going to be a busy weekend! Anyone have any suggestions on an orbital. I am having a bit of trouble pulling the trigger on buying another one. I want to drive this to work on occasion and want to go fast on dirt roads but I also want it to be fairly quick. How do you guys like the load sensing valves? I have never driven one so I'm not sure of the feel. I'm thinking 2 turns lock to lock but I can't decide on the load sensing or non load sensing.

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Kamikaze said:
I'm thinking 2 turns lock to lock but I can't decide on the load sensing or non load sensing.
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2 turns is too quick for any road use. That is what I have in the Single Seater, and I wished I had a little more, maybe 2 1/2 turns.
 
Thanks for the input. How do you feel about the load sensing valves? They won't try to take my thumbs off banging around on the rocks will they?
 
Kamikaze said:
Thanks for the input. How do you feel about the load sensing valves? They won't try to take my thumbs off banging around on the rocks will they?
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I have not seen one yet that won't spin under certain circumstances. Never put your thumbs inside a steering wheel. And never reach through a steeering wheel to crank it. I have no knowledge of the load sensing, I just got what PSC told me I needed.
 
I learned never to put my thumbs inside the wheel at a young age.... :eek: I was just wondering if its as bad as a not assist steering. I will probably just stick to the non load sensing valve. I knda like the dead wheel feel personaly. Thanks for the input. I guess I can order a valve now after a little more math. Anyone know off hand what the gpm flow rate of a toyota power steering pump?
 
I ordered a 6.2 cu in displacement char lynn orbital. I calculated my cylinder displacement at 15.3152 cu inches so that should net me 2.47 turns lock to lock and since its a double ended ram it will be the same both ways. I am making my own high steer arms for these axles so I will make them long enough to take the entire 8" stroke of the rams and not over extend the longfields. That should also make things easier on the pump. The knuckles might not like it but with the light weight of this buggy it should hold up. Now the only question is should I try aluminum arms or steel. We have some 1" A 514 drops at the shop that I can burn some nice arms out of. I also have some 1.25 6061 T-6 that I can burn out as well. You think they would hold up?
 
Sweet slit, we need to start a thread with BEST BODY CARNAGE. You qualify with that little gash. laughing1
 
Yeah, I got the stitches out yesterday and it is trying to open back up. They cut out a plug of skin that was scooped out by the flex disk. It was about .25" by .625" and all the way to the bone. So now I have a hole there with what looks like hard cherry jello in it that is sunk in 1/8". I'll just tell people I got in a bar fight or something. I'm just glad I only nicked the tendon. I cut the artery in two and it was shooting blood like 7 ft. The doctor showed me the bone while he was irigating it and there where several grind marks in it. :****:
 
Picked up my front end earlier this week. Finally got around to working on it. Used the new plasma cutter to get all the stock brackets off of it. Worked like a charm. Put the tires on to get an idea of the clearances I am working with. Looks like 114" is the magic number on the wheel base. Also I think I can get away with not running the wheel spacers, which is good because I was always nervous about them after the first time I sheared all the studs off.......

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Did some layout work on the upper link mounts for the rear. I'm hoping that the same layout will work with the front, but with as low as it sits I might end up 3 linking the front end or coming up with some different motor mounts. I am trying to plan ahead for a 4.3 swap in the future so a 3 link might be a better solution. The rear should work just dandy though. Here is a rough layout. I might bring the outside braces out to the tubes and integrate the air shock mounts into the brace.

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Got them burned out after work. I'm going to fit them up after dinner. They fit pretty good off of my measurements.


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Got more work done on the rear axle. I fit and tacked up the air shock mounts. Turns out the 2nd hole in my cross member works perfect so I am going to cut out the middle and box it in to save weight. I was planning on mounting the suck down winch in the chassis but with the offset rear end it worked out perfect on the axle. So I built a mount for the winch on the upper link mount and braced it down to the axle. The cable will run though a snatch block in the chassis and back down to the center limiting strap mount. After all of the stories of busted winch cables I am still going to run a center strap so the winch will only be loaded on the occasional suck down. I am going to weld a couple of stitches a day till its welded out to avoid warping the piss out of the housing. I was worried that the 14" shocks wouldn't flex enough but after hanging it with them on it looks like they will be just right. I was also concerned with the lower links contacting the chassis but I think they will clear fine. My drive shaft however will eat the passenger side link up, so I will have to move the t-case over just a bit. The tranny is also about 2" out of center, not sure how that happened so that will help as well when I permanently mount the drive train. I am still looking for a 4.3 and a turbo 350 so I can rob the dual cases out of my DD to put in this buggy. The centered rear output would work out much better. I also recycled the brace that I cut off. I cut it down to match the front since its and '83 housing and that would bug me.......

Anyway on to the pics....

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I am waiting to rotate the knuckle balls until I get the rear links in (if I can ever get a cnc lathe at work again....). This is the first rear steer axle I have built so I have a question, what kind of caster angle do I run in the rear? Straight up and down? A few degree's back like the front? Any help here would be wonderful.
 

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