The snawsage version---- something

[crash2]

Rob had a BLAST in the rig--and boy was it a mess :haha:

So being as how I refuse to work on a rig with lumps of dirt/mud falling off I went and cleaned the poor thing up

 

[crash2]

Ok when the right rear caliper popped--they had cut/pounded the line closed (while I was on a parts run)

So since I already replaced the front due to the drivers front popping--I went ahead and threw the old passenger front on the right rear. Now I know there is no proof it will work(pop) but I figured it was worth a try. The hardline had to be replaced anyways..

 

[crash2]

One concern me and robin had was the studs that they put on to retian the hood. Well when he rolled over he broke 2 wing nuts and bent 2 of the studs. Robin had said he was going to figure something out down the road. I decided to just go ahead and take care of it. I went and lopped all the studs off flush with the tubing..

Now the studs were just bolts welded into the tube with the head down in the tube--so once the threaded porting was cut the head was still in the tube.

So I just went and drilled all 8 and tapped them..

 

[crash2]

So the only real issue we had--which was unforseen for either of us was due to extreem heat. Here is where the brake hose popped(air line popped about 8" forward) which is the closest of anything to the exhaust. The red heat shield stuff couldn't fully protect it from the heat of the header..

So I put some thought into the situation and called robin to tell him what I wanted to do. He liked the idea so I am going to roll with that :redneck:

Well where the lines hit the link bar and went down(to the extreem heat source) the square portion of the frame ducked over--so it made perfect sense to lop a hole in that area and run it down the tube... So for starters I lopped a hole....

So I just gotta figure out how I want it to pop out and that should do the trick :awesomework:

 

[Roccrawler]

those plastic lines are going to be a never ending headache :scratchhead:

 

[crash2]

those plastic lines are going to be a never ending headache :scratchhead:

I had my doubts before too troy. But once this issue is resolved(and it will be) I think they will do quite well actually. The only think I found hard to wrok with it---the fact to make a sharp corner you had to work the plastic into shape. But I still prefer to work with hardline due to its nature to stay put once bent into shape...

 

[Roccrawler]

I had my doubts before too troy. But once this issue is resolved(and it will be) I think they will do quite well actually. The only think I found hard to wrok with it---the fact to make a sharp corner you had to work the plastic into shape. But I still prefer to work with hardline due to its nature to stay put once bent into shape...

I know whatever you do with them will be the best case, but I think the long term outlook will not be good.. only time will tell I guess

 

[CHOP SHOP]

those plastic lines are going to be a never ending headache :scratchhead:

thats what I was thinking. cant even do the macgyver pinch and fold on that plastic line like they did with the caliper hardline. :redneck:

maybe itll work out good:cheer:

 

[briejer]

The main plus on the lines is they are a simple fix. Just a compression fitting union on any brake or air line and ..Vroomm...back on the trail. That is why I went with them. We just happened to leave my bag of brass fittings at Crash's garage. I also carry a few feet of the line in my tool bag.

If it were a hardline at that location it would not have failed, it would just cook the brake fluid and I would have a brake issue I could never figure out.

I really dig the idea of putting it in the frame.......................hmmmm, what else(besides mud) could we put in the frame?

 

[crash2]

The main plus on the lines is they are a simple fix. Just a compression fitting union on any brake or air line and ..Vroomm...back on the trail. That is why I went with them. We just happened to leave my bag of brass fittings at Crash's garage.

"we"... actually I can take the blame on that one. I was going to grab them "just in case" but spaced it off :booo:

 

[Nuzzy]

hmmmm, what else(besides mud) could we put in the frame?

-Coolant
-Compressed Air
-A Fake Vagina


Options one and two have been done a lot, so I suggest option three :redneck:

 

[85b2man]

so are you gonna be making another run to test out that hood lol see if you break the bolts in a roll over :fawkdancesmiley: j/k man but are you gonna do another run

 

[Spanaway Mudder]

-Coolant
-Compressed Air
-A Fake Vagina:haha:


Options one and two have been done a lot, so I suggest option three :redneck:

Funnay!!

 

[KarlVP]

-Coolant
-Compressed Air
-A Fake Vagina


Options one and two have been done a lot, so I suggest option three :redneck:

X2

On a side note, not everyone has AAA for Reiter trails.

Robin was beating the crap out of his rig and here comes Rhonda and Crash with repair parts. He stops and says; "oh, here's my AAA to get my rig fixed".

Winner.

 

[crash2]

X2

On a side note, not everyone has AAA for Reiter trails.

Robin was beating the crap out of his rig and here comes Rhonda and Crash with repair parts. He stops and says; "oh, here's my AAA to get my rig fixed".

Winner.

I gotta laugh outa that one---fooo shoooooooo :haha: :haha:

 

[Spanaway Mudder]

Iam really kicking myself in the ass for not making that run..

missed out on a good time, and lost a bridge..

 

[crash2]

Ok so I am still poking at it (alot going on right now)

But in any case with the rear hold cut--I had to decide on where I wanted it to pop out the frame. The inside of the rail was a no go due to the link clearance to the frame. The outside--too much of a bash zone. So that left the top/bottom. Well I deiced to go with the bottom due to which direction the lines go once they left the frame...

Lopped an oblong hole since the lines come out of the frame at a sharp angle and will bend downward when the suspension droops..

 

[crash2]

So I went and rewound the front lines under the floor and did my best to protect them from heat. Also in the straight section of line before it dives into the frame---there are couplers for each line so in case the lines end up being too short--the problem can be resolved by only digging into that area/replacing the lines. I also go lucky and had just enough of the brake line to not have to patch the area that got the hole--since it was the passnger side (so one chunk from the new splice to the softline connection). And I also chose to splice new line for the air locker--so I will have to run new line up to the diff--but that will make only one splice in the line rather than 2--made sense to do it that way..

And here are the lines ran thru the new hole with a lil more added protection.. As you can see the oblong hole will let the lines float in the frame

So all thats left is to finish the air line and bleed the brakes/test for leaks...

 

[briejer]

Looks great:awesomework:

I'm down for a Sunday test run.


If you choose to use shop air for a locker test, 55-90 psi. for the lockers.

 

[NotMatt]

If you guys are going out Sunday for a test run, I want a shotgun seat somewhere. :redneck: